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December 28, 2007

Pyramids, Inc.

Everybody loves a good pyramid, whether it's at the Luxor casino in Vegas or in the courtyard of the Louvre in Paris. There's one on the back of the dollar bill and the rapper Jay-Z makes the symbol with his hand at concerts. (What does that mean, anyway? Empire? Diamonds? A secret Masonic order?)

In any case, Egypt is fed up with the ubiquitous imitations of its most famous landmark. Wire services are reporting that the Egyptian government might copyright the pyramids and many of its other legendary antiquities, such as scarab beetles and pharaonic statuary. Paul Schemm of the AP wrote that it was "an attempt to get paid from the sale of replicas," and was partly inspired by complaints in the Egyptian media about the lucrative pyramid-shaped Luxor casino in Las Vegas.

My colleague and fellow Egyptian-American Nancy Youssef, sent me this link from the Guardian's story about the proposal. (Thanks for the topic suggestion!)

For now, it seems the proposal would only cover exact replicas, down to scale, so you should be safe from copyright infringement unless you build a same-scale model of an Egyptian relic. Obviously, getting foreign jurisdictions to enforce such a ban is another major obstacle for the Egyptian authorities. The proposal doesn't even get into that.

Perhaps not surprisingly, the copyright proposal appears to have been the brainchild of Zahi Hawass, Egypt's zany, over-the-top antiquities chief. You might recall him as that melodramatic guy in the Indiana Jones hat on National Geographic specials about Ancient Egypt. Dr. Hawass is a diehard publicity hound, albeit one who's managed to get new generations excited about Egyptology and has helped drive tourism to ancient sites here. Hey, before you snicker at Egypt's diva-in-residence, ask yourself: do you have your own fan club?

December 25, 2007

Happy holidays

Greetings from Istanbul!

Happy holidays to you all and I'll be back soon after a short break. And a big 'thank you' to everyone who sent in recommendations on what to see and do in Turkey, from sampling Black Sea anchovies to how to pronounce everyday greetings. Though I must say that no guide book prepared me for the taxi driver who blasted "Smack That A--" on the radio while driving us to the Blue Mosque.

Turkey is truly an enchanting place when the authorities aren't foiling bomb attempts in Istanbul or launching risky operations in northern Iraq. But more on that soon. I hope to return to regular postings by Friday.

Salaam.

December 19, 2007

First day of Eid

Ismailibrahim I missed the actual slaughter, which was fine by me.

By the time I went out for a newspaper this morning, the streets of my neighborhood were awash with blood. The livestock that had been tethered to posts last night were conspicuously absent.

Sheep, goats and cows had been slaughtered in accordance with strict Islamic guidelines that call for cleanliness and minimal suffering for the animal. Meat from the Eid al Adha, the Islamic holiday of sacrifice, was distributed to poor Egyptians at the mosque on my street.

Most of my family is out of town, so the Eid experience is far more sedate this year than our usual gift-giving, prayers and blaring music. The sacrifice typically is made after the dawn prayers, so all I got to see was the aftermath on my block. A man in a red-spattered gown whistled as he sprayed the blood off his front steps with a garden hose. A little further down the street, another man dipped his palm in  blood and stamped a crimson handprint on the wall of his apartment building. Superstitious Egyptians believe the symbol wards off the evil eye and protects the home's inhabitants.

The streets were eerily empty and quiet. The only people out were either en route to family gatherings with huge slabs of meat under their arms or aggressive beggars hoping the holiday cheer would make passersby a little more generous.

The most intriguing scene was just around a corner. A stooped, ancient woman dressed in the black rags of the most destitute of Egyptians was pounding an animal bone on the curb for all she was worth. Bam, bam, bam. The bloody bone slipped out of her feeble grasp but she kept trying to crack it for the marrow, which is used in several recipes.

I reached my newsstand, but there were no International Herald Tribunes because of the holiday. The owner, a Coptic Christian, apologized and said papers would resume tomorrow. As I left the shop, he called out a cheerful, "Merry Christmas!"

Close enough.

December 17, 2007

Justice, Saudi-style

Saudi Arabia's King Abdullah has pardoned the Girl of Qatif, a young rape victim who had been sentenced to 200 lashes for being alone with a man at the time of her attack, the AP is reporting today.

Click here for background on the brutal assault case that became a symbol of the abritrariness of the Saudi justice system. In Saudi Arabia, a staunch U.S. ally, jurisprudence comes only from the Quran, but interpretations can vary widely from judge to judge. As a result, there are no uniform sentencing guidelines, so a robber in one city can get 50 lashes while a robber in another city could get 20 years in prison for the same offense.

The Girl of Qatif's pardon included no plans to address the laundry list of other alleged inequalities that human rights activists have uncovered in the Saudi court system.

Saudi Justice Minister Abdullah bin Muhammed al-Sheik told al-Jazirah newspaper that the pardon does not mean the king doubted the country's judges, but instead acted in the "interests of the people," according to the AP.

"The king always looks into alleviating the suffering of the citizens when he becomes sure that these verdicts will leave psychological effects on the convicted people, though he is convinced and sure that the verdicts were fair," al-Jazirah quoted al-Sheik as saying.

For further reading on the Saudi justice system, which critics frequently describe as "medieval," check out:

-- This Financial Times story from October about a royal decree to overhaul the archaic court system.

-- A Human Rights Watch news release about the Girl of Qatif, including an excerpt from HRW's interview with the victim.

-- A U.S. government backgrounder on the Saudi court system can be seen here.

-- An older Amnesty International report on Saudi Arabia, titled "End Secrecy, End Suffering."

December 15, 2007

A songbird's plea for unity

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On Monday, the Lebanese parliament will meet with the expectation of naming the army chief as president, a long-delayed decision that has led to political paralysis and high tensions in Beirut.

The beloved Lebanese singer and UN goodwill ambassador Majida el Roumi gave a speech a few days ago in which she sharply criticized political leaders for having "torn the country into pieces" with their religious and sectarian agendas. She urged Lebanese to remember their decades of war and to "put an end to this disastrous situation and this horrible division" before more lives are squandered.

El Roumi's speech, at a Beirut ceremony to remember the slain journalist Gebran Tueni, is racing across the Internet this week. It's turning up on Arab-focused blogs, on academic listservs and in chat rooms. Lebanon's English-language newspaper, The Daily Star, wrote an entire editorial in praise of the 51-year-old singer's chastisement of the political class.

"She rightly berated them for having spent the past three decades engaged in divisive politicking that has exposed the country to meddling from both East and West," the editorial stated. "It is too early to know whether she managed to make any of them feel ashamed, but she certainly made some of their offenses clear."

NowLebanon.com offered this English translation of el Roumi's speech:

How many hearts have to be broken? How many homes have to be ruined? How many Lebanese have to be given worries as their daily bread? How many young men and women have to leave the country before you decide to meet and put an end to this disastrous situation and this horrible division? How can divisions reach the point of having people tell me, “Do not pray at Pierre’s funeral or say a word in Gebran’s commemoration, or you would be speaking up against the others.” Who are the others? Aren’t you all Lebanese? All those martyrs who have died from the southernmost part of the country in massacres perpetrated by Israel to its northernmost part, in the case of our beloved army martyrs, and all those who died for our youth’s sake, … Aren’t they all – truly and honestly – ours? Didn’t they break our hearts? Aren’t they only guilty of being Lebanese?

We no longer meet to pray for the martyrs’ souls, since we now have “their” martyr and “our” martyr. I reject this painful discrimination. I hereby say that it was an honor to sing for Pierre inasmuch as it is an honor to speak about Gebran. If I am accused of being Lebanese, then I am the lucky one. I no longer care who will be offended by these words. Indeed, I know that some people will be offended, but I no longer care about them because, after 30 years of war, we have come to lose hope. I no longer care to bear witness to anyone on this earth, especially not in politics. I only bear witness to the Lord, and our Lord loves peace. He is against violence and He tells me to bear witness to what is right, to the best of our youth and to the sovereignty and freedom of this land, as any self-respecting citizen with some dignity should do. I bear witness to the tormented, martyred Lebanese people who has close brushes with death everyday and barely hangs on to life. I say: enough is enough…

You say you are entrusted with Lebanon’s sovereignty and our safety… [In reality,] you have torn the country into pieces, and you want to replace it with one that is tailor-made for confessions, parties and power obsessions. However, this country is far greater than that. You are responsible for driving wedges among us and dividing us under a single roof. You have scattered us and linked our case with half of the world’s pending issues… Why should we be a card in everyone’s hand? How can you accept to remain divided for 30 years, and then tell the whole world that you are unable to run the country’s affairs? In the end, this may be the ultimate aim. If so, then why are you doing it? You are entrusted with our freedom, our sovereignty and our independence. I am here to say: [You have done] enough… let us live.

In the name of what is right, in the name of the Lord, who you say you love and according to whose will you claim to be acting, let this state remain a state. Whose interest would be served if this nation remains unsheltered and if the state breaks up into countless component parts? I am here to conjure you up in the name of the Lord to make peace. You are so stifling us that there will be no one left to hear you. I am here for Gebran’s sake to tell him: I have come to pay tribute to you, my dear brother and friend. Our hearts will keep on beating as one as long as you are alive within us. Why is that so? Because we remained oblivious to the worth of the perfect man that you were. If no tribute is paid to you today as a King who left us, who deserves such a tribute then? Do those who have slain us deserve it? We shall not give it to them. Dear Gebran, I see your pictures on billboards, and I am ashamed to tell you that your blood will not have been spilled in vain. In the name of the everlasting God, I tell you with total confidence that there will come a day when your blood will bloom only in the three colors of our national flag. This day of freedom and sovereignty will undoubtedly come no matter how long it takes because no one can grow greater than Lebanon… Nor shall Lebanon ever be diminished. All shall perish and Lebanon shall remain, and you shall always be there, O Gebran, along with the great men who have borne witness to its dignity and its special vocation on this Earth.

December 13, 2007

Got jihad?

The Christmas and Eid holidays run back-to-back this year, and it's hard to shop for people who straddle Western and Middle Eastern cultures. While surfing the Web in hopes of finding unique gifts, I was surprised to stumble across an array of Arab-themed T-shirts whose slogans illustrate how bold Muslims have become in speaking out about their post-9/11 experience.

Once described as an "invisible minority," Muslims in the United States and abroad can now express themselves with in-your-face T-shirts that strike at U.S. foreign policy, racial profiling, cultural stereotypes and Islamist extremism. A few years back, a friend gave me a gag gift, a T-shirt that shows a dancing mullah below the word, "FUNdamentalist." A novelty at the time, such clothing is now widely available from online specialty stores.   

Last year, an Iraqi peace activist said he was forced to remove a T-shirt printed with, "We will not be silent" before boarding a JetBlue flight to California. Activists against racial profiling drew attention to the case. A blogger who was outraged by the incident has created his own T-shirt,  with "I am not a terrorist" written in Arabic. Proceeds reportedly go to the ACLU.

Rootsgear recently added a cheeky T-shirt that says, "100% randomly searched at the following airports." The words appear over a map of the United States, with little airport symbols in every state. (Thanks to SP, a Middle East Diary regular, for the tip.)

The creatively named Halalapalooza site offers a list of apparel companies that sell Muslim-themed political T-shirts and other items. For example, one company has created a "Muslims for Ron Paul 2008" bumper sticker where the "O" in the presidential candidate's first name is depicted as a crescent moon, a symbol of Islam. Another top seller is a simple, black-and-white tee that reads, "1,000 years have passed, and George Bush still doesn't know the Crusades didn't work." Yours for $14.95.

Several online outfitters poke fun at Western hysteria over the word "jihad," which is almost exclusively used in reference to holy war instead of its broader definition as a struggle or challenge. The Islamist hip-hop company Khalifah Klothing offers a graffiti-style T-shirt with the word "jihad" in Arabic and English. WearAloud.com sells a "Jihad vs. G8" shirt, and Zazzle.com's tees simply ask, "Got Jihad?"

The immigrant experience is lampooned by other online T-shirt companies, especially those run by enterprising young Arab Americans. One such operation, T-shirtat.com, has snug cotton ladies' shirts with slogans such as "Arab Soul" and "Syrian Princess" across the front. The shirts are hot items at Arab-themed conferences throughout the United States.

The local Egyptian apparel company, Zafir, also makes trendy tees with designs that include Egyptian proverbs, the Arabic slang word for "cool," catchphrases from a beloved play, and other symbols of Arab pop culture. (Zafir has a shop in the Cairo neighborhood of Zamalek, but I couldn't find an online presence.)   

The online Phatwa Factory describes itself as "the best thing to happen to Muslim clothing since pants under a thawb (traditional men's gown). Offering a variety of funny Muslim T-shirts. Remember, if you don't like them, the terrorists win. Or at least tie."

Phatwa Factory products take aim at stereotypes -- there's a shirt with a five-humped camel and the words, "Arab limo," and the familiar Sesame Street logo replaced with, "Salafi Street."

But hands-down, this site gives the best (if unintentional) example of the Muslim world's struggle to uphold deep-rooted values amid the encroaching influence of Western pop culture. The product roster lists sassy thong underwear stamped with "haram," which means forbidden or not permitted under Islam, right next to a $34 maternity shirt that reads, "Allah's little angel."

December 10, 2007

Virtual hajj

Mecca It's hajj season, time for millions of Muslims to converge on the holy city of Mecca in a pilgrimage that's obligatory for every Muslim at least once. Rituals begin next week, but airports already are packed with white-draped pilgrims and authorities are on high alert in regional transit points.

On television, hajj looks overwhelming and rigorous. When we lived in Saudi Arabia, my father performed the hajj and came back thin and drained. The rituals are physically demanding, most pilgrims sleep in uncomfortable tents and the crowds are crushing as millions share the same patch of sacred land.

Despite the hardships, returnees (who receive the honorific "hajji," or "hajjiya," for a woman) often describe being spiritually moved. Malcolm X and others have commented on the hajj as a chance to see the spectrum of Islam: Nigerians, Turks, Iranians, South Africans, Indians, Filipinos, Malaysians, Egyptians, Chinese and French, all mouthing the same prayers.

Now, you can experience the hajj from the comfort of your home, by becoming a member of Second Life, the immensely popular virtual world where residents can buy property and explore other continents. The Cairo-based Website IslamOnline bought an island on Second Life and moved Mecca to cyberspace. Muslims and non-Muslims alike can perform Hajj 2008, even swathing their avatars in the traditional while pilgrims' attire.

Second Life residents who visit the island can get free "bags" that contain all the hajj essentials: white garb, a tent and a sleeping bag.

"Virtual pilgrims will go all the way through Al-Masjid Al-Haram in the holy city of Makkah to Mena and Mount `Arafah," says an article about the virtual hajj on IslamOnline. "Through their avatars, trainees will also be able to gather pebbles for the symbolic stoning of the devil at the Jamrat Bridge."

I tried to visit the hajj island today. I signed up for Second Life, downloaded the animation software and found myself in virtual Russia without a stitch of clothes on. Try as I might, I just couldn't figure out how to navigate Second Life. I finally located a map and headed toward IslamOnline's island. However, I still couldn't figure out how to clothe my nude avatar and decided to sign off rather than arrive in "Mecca" stark naked.

If any seasoned Second Life residents are reading, perhaps you could share some tips on clothing avatars and getting to hajj island. Apparently, signing up is worth the effort. IslamOnline promises an "awe-inspiring" experience that's "the closest you can get to the real thing."

December 08, 2007

The Middle East's tallest visitors

Basketball_2 They were treated like celebrities when they entered the waiting lounge for a recent EgyptAir flight from Damascus to Cairo: two impossibly tall African Americans, one from Ohio and one from Michigan, triumphantly returning from a regional basketball tournament.

Surrounded by their equally towering Egyptian teammates, the American athletes posed for photos and smiled at the children who shyly approached them. Strangers congratulated them on their silver cup and Arab businessmen offered back slaps and high fives.

The young men are among a handful of Americans who play for sports teams in the Middle East, where they delight fans with their tattoos and victory dances, and become de facto ambassadors for their increasingly unpopular country. Some of them are former NBA players who now earn big paychecks for helping out weak foreign leagues. Last year, at the height of the debate over Tehran's nuclear program, I wrote this story about Americans who play for a team sponsored by the Iranian defense ministry.

As luck would have it, I sat next to one of the American players, Marvin, who folded his 6'7" frame into the tiny EgyptAir seat. He pulled two books from his backpack, "The Autobiography of Malcolm X" and a Noam Chomsky commentary on imperialism. During the flight, he told me about his adventures playing for teams from Turkey to China. When I mentioned that I hoped to visit Istanbul soon, he gave me the address for an underground hip-hop club in Taksim Square.

"And you have to take one of those boat rides on the Bosporous, but make sure you get on a slow one, not a fast one, because you'll get seasick," Marvin advised. "I'm dead serious. People were barfing. Get on the slow one, for real."

Marvin said he's lived overseas for so long that he feels more like a citizen of the world than a regular Joe from Ohio. He said he goes home eager to share stories about the ancient ruins and colorful markets he's visited, but his friends are interested in just one thing: "Yo, what are the women like over there?"

"I feel like we just don't have that much in common anymore," Marvin said. "Americans don't know anything about what's going on in Iraq or anywhere else. They don't know we invaded a country to take its resources. Of course, the military doesn't release the number of Iraqis they killed because they don't want the American public to be outraged. What is it, like, 700,000 by now?"

Marvin said he was also disappointed in a few incidents of racism he's experienced in the Middle East, especially in Egypt, an African country. He said Egyptians seem to be in denial of their African heritage, favoring light skin and straight hair. He recently visited a museum in Cairo to see renderings of Ancient Egypt. He said he was transfixed by portraits of Egyptians' ancient ancestors.

"I was looking at them and thinking, 'Black. Black. Yep, he's black, too. Black," Marvin said, describing his reaction to the faces.

Marvin just signed on for six months with the Ahly team in Cairo. He lives in Zamalek, but is so new to the neighborhood that he could only remember his address as, "that tall building near the McDonald's." He was excited to get back to Egypt, he said, because his teammates had promised to take him to the pyramids in Giza. He said he wanted to visit Abu Simbel and Luxor before his contract was up.

Miret and I made him a list of ten things he had to do before leaving Egypt, activities that ranged from taking a felucca ride on the Nile to visiting the magnificent Ibn Tulun Mosque. We directed him to Lucille's in Maadi for iced tea and chicken-fried steak as an antidote to homesickness. He had to have a fresh pomegranate juice on the Nile at Sequoia.

"The Cairo Jazz Club," Marvin said, reading one of our recommendations. "Cairo Jazz. That's gotta be one of the best names ever."

   

 

December 06, 2007

MAK's odyssey

Dsc01180 Back in June, I wrote about a young Iraqi man named Mohammed Abdul Kareem, or MAK, the nickname given to him by the U.S. soldiers he worked with for three years before he fled to Syria upon receiving death threats.

His story was emblematic of the predicament dozens of Iraqi interpreters face when U.S. forces rotate out of Iraq and leave their Iraqi allies behind.

Militants have branded them traitors to their people for helping the occupying army, and the U.S. government has resettled only a handful, despite promises that allies like MAK will get top priority for admittance to the United States.

Most of them, like MAK, are in limbo, stuck in the relative safety of Syria or Jordan if they're lucky. Others continue their dangerous work in Baghdad, lying to friends and even relatives about their jobs, and praying the insurgents don't find them. (Click here to read the story about MAK or listen to an audio slideshow in which he describes his downward spiral from trusted U.S. ally to destitute refugee.)

Sometimes, you write these kinds of stories and miracles happen. If the story ends up on the desk of the right person, the red tape is cut, a visa is issued and the subject is spirited to safety. Unfortunately, that didn't happen in MAK's case.

Last night, we met up with him again in Damascus and heard the harrowing tale of how he's spent the past five months. After the initial story was published June 19, a few outraged readers asked how they could help MAK survive in Syria, even offering to wire him money to express their gratitude for his service to the U.S. military.

However, none of their generous offers worked out because transferring money to Syria can raise red flags with Homeland Security. In Syria, MAK was too scared to approach the U.S. diplomatic mission for fear the local authorities would pick him up and question him about his work with the American military in Iraq.

Nearly broke and desperate to leave the Middle East, MAK took a path of last resort: hiring a smuggler to take him from Turkey to Greece, where he hoped to finally reach American diplomats who could process his case for asylum. These stories rarely have happy endings; my colleague Leila Fadel chronicled one such attempt in this story.

MAK's journey was no exception. He'd paid more than $6,000 (most of it borrowed) to a Turkish smuggler, who promised him that only he and three other Iraqi refugees would be hidden in the back of the vegetable truck that would carry them to the border and transfer them to a middleman who was supposed to get them into Greece.

As is often the case, the smuggler had lied, and MAK and his companions found themselves crammed into an unventilated truck with a total of 85 refugees. About half were Iraqis, he said, noting that many of them were Kurds. The rest were Sudanese from Darfur, Somalis escaping their anarchic country, stateless Palestinians and a smattering of Pakistanis.

As they approached the border before dawn, the truck tipped onto its side when the driver tried to cross a stream. The refugees inside panicked; they were falling on top of one another and banging on the sides of the truck for the driver and the smuggler to help them escape. When the doors were opened, MAK said, the refugees poured out and ran for a nearby woodsy area before any passersby spotted this human cargo and alerted the Turkish authorities.

In the melee, many of them lost their shoes, and were forced to walk barefoot for four hours until they came to a clearing where the smuggler instructed them to wait for him until the next evening. The plan was, he would bring a new truck and they'd make a fresh attempt the next evening. The smuggler didn't return the next night, or the next.

In the meantime, MAK said, the refugees fashioned a makeshift camp in the woods. They clustered together by nationality. The Arabs, Kurds and Pakistanis were resentful of the Africans' preparedness, he said. When their stomachs began to growl, the Somalis and Sudanese pulled sandwiches from their bags. When it began to rain, the African refugees pulled out garbage bags they used for shelter. The others had not come with such provisions, so they huddled together for warmth, with the able-bodied sheltering the handful of women and children among them.

When they realized they'd been duped and the smuggler would never return for them, MAK and his three companions walked another long stretch and hailed a passing driver to take them to a bus stop so they could return to Istanbul, where they'd stashed their Iraqi passports, electronic equipment and some cash with friends. But after two nights in the woods, it was pretty hard to miss a group of bedraggled, half-starved Iraqis in the Turkish countryside. Long story short, the Turkish authorities arrested them all and they ended up in a holding facility crammed with hundreds of other would-be illegal immigrants.

What happened next is so detailed and complicated that it could fill a book. Basically, it involved Turkish interrogators, false Palestinian documents, a brief release, a recapture, and a two-day bus ride to the Iraqi border, where they were officially deported and turned over to the Kurdish peshmerga militia. They spent time in Kurdish prisons, which are notorious for abusing Arab detainees, then were released to the custody of an Arab friend from Kirkuk.

In Kirkuk, MAK was terrified insurgents would learn of his former job with the U.S. military, so he kept to himself and quietly arranged for a visa to Syria through another series of bribes and falsified documents. MAK returned to Damascus last week after this nightmarish ordeal. Now, all his options have been exhausted and he has no idea where to turn.

As my previous story about him described, he'd tried in vain several times to reach safety the legal way, through contacting his former American comrades and obtaining glowing letters of recommendation from high-ranking officers. That didn't work. He's tried to escape the illegal way, via the busy smuggling routes through Turkey. That didn't work.

Now, the man who risked his life for three years alongside American soldiers is once again stuck in Damascus, in dire need of a miracle in a place where miracles are in short supply.

 

December 03, 2007

Syrian sweetness

Chocolate

No refugee stories today, I promise. We've heard such a litany of horrors for the past two days that I just want to take a minute to focus on something frivolous and fun. Namely, chocolate.

Perhaps you've heard about Syrian pastries -- flaky, syrup-soaked confections that smell of rose water and orange blossoms. But the Syrians have another sweet specialty, something the British Airways in-flight magazine recently called "Damascus' darkest secret." Syria is home to one of the world's foremost chocolatiers, the Ghraoui company.

The in-flight magazine mentioned above had interviewed one of the Ghraoui scions, who said sales have grown fivefold since the company was honored with the 2005 award for best foreign chocolatier at the prestigious Paris Salon du Chocolat, a gathering of leading connoisseurs. The company that once had to lure customers by giving away free gold spoons with purchases now has several branches in Syria and Jordan, and plans to open boutiques in Paris, London, Budapest, Dubai and other cities.

Ghraoui began as a fruit and vegetable canning outfit in 1805, but didn't really delve into chocolate until the early 1930s, when one of the founders returned from a business trip to Paris with an idea to tempt the Arab world's sweet tooth with a new delicacy. The company's Web site claims it was the first to manufacture chocolate in the Middle East, and had to work hard to convince Arabs to set aside their sticky pastries and try something different.

The Web site says the first products were made from imported European chocolate blocks that were melted locally and converted into shapes and bars. Admittedly, it took some practice to craft the visually stunning, palate-pleasing products of today.

I first discovered the splendor that is Ghraoui two years ago, when I was in Syria on holiday and stayed at a bed & breakfast where the host left a tiny sampler box on my pillow each night. I was sold after one bite, and have since been a loyal customer, carting Ghraoui sweets to friends in Baghdad, Tehran, Cairo and even to our home newsroom in Washington, DC. Far and away, the most-requested item is a box of orangettes, slivers of jellied orange peels coated with rich, dark chocolate.

Just visiting a Ghraoui boutique is a treat. Rows of tantalizing selections sit behind glass: truffles and mocha and fondants and every nut in the world that can be drowned in chocolate. Apart from the main attraction, Ghraoui also makes a variety of nougats and regionally famous candied fruits. The well-heeled shopkeepers insist on several tasting rounds; you can't refuse. When you finally decide on some favorites and make a purchase, the shopkeepers place the sweets in the signature dark-orange box and tie the package up with with a brown satin bow. Give them as gifts and you won't get any complaints.

Unfortunately, it doesn't appear that a U.S. branch is coming anytime soon. But the store brochure says it can ship products and lists an email address for customer inquiries. Bien sur, the email address is chocolat@net.sy

   

December 02, 2007

Rana's backpack

Miret and I are in Syria now, checking in on the Iraqi refugee crisis. We were last here in June, when we met a tough-as-nails Iraqi freelance journalist named Rana.

At the time, Rana was doing better than a lot of other displaced Iraqis. She lived in a rented room in a sun-dappled villa in the lovely Old Quarter of Damascus. She did sporadic work with foreign journalists, so she had some income. She was even able to pursue her own stories and documentary film projects in other countries, returning to Syria with no problem. Rana was never unappreciative of her relatively good fortune and spent most of her free time either arranging for destitute Iraqis to get to Syria, or sending medical supplies from Syria to besieged communities in Iraq.

What a difference five months makes.

The Rana we found this week is broke, working odd jobs, in Syria illegally and crashing with some friends at a dismal Palestinian refugee camp in Damascus. Her most valuable possession is her laptop, which she keeps in a black backpack that has become an extension of her body. There is no place she feels is truly safe enough to leave her precious computer, especially not at the camp where she lives. She must carry it everwhere she goes -- it's her entire life bundled into one sturdy canvas bag.

Rana's most recent troubles started when she decided to go to Pakistan for a monthlong documentary project. She couldn't afford both rent in Damascus and cash for her work trip, so she had to give up her pretty room in the Old Quarter, hoping she'd find something comparable when she returned.

Instead, Rana returned to find that Syria's open door for Iraqis was inching shut. When she arrived at the Damascus airport, she said, the immigration officials threatened to deport her that very day on a plane bound for the southern Iraqi city of Basra, which is inhabited almost exclusively by Shiite Muslims. Rana happens to be a Sunni from the Baghdad neighborhood of Adhemiya, a bastion of resistance to the U.S. and Iraqi administrations. Sending her to Basra would have been tantamount to sending her to the gallows. In a narrow escape, she paid a $50 bribe and was issued a one-week visa, which expired long ago. (She's since been told she was granted Syrian residency, but has yet to undergo the extensive vaccinations and medical checkups that are required before she actually receives her legal status.)

The next obstacle was housing. Her kind Syrian landlady told her she'd already rented Rana's old room. Strapped for cash and desperate to find a place fast, Rana accepted the invitation of some aid worker friends to crash at their place in the Palestinian camp, an overflowing and miserable enclave that is unspeakably depressing for Iraqi refugees, who fear the same future.

Then it was time to focus on money. Rana tracked down Western journalists who'd never paid her for the work she did. She accepted journalism assignments here and there, but it was still barely enough to make ends meet. As of today, she still had no steady job. A powerful documentary she co-produced about the lives of Iraqi civilians during a U.S. offensive on Fallujah will be screened at a film festival in Italy this month. Rana's been invited to attend and give a talk, but she doesn't dare risk leaving her Syrian sanctuary again.

Throughout this ordeal, Rana began to cling to her backback. It is never out of her sight, not even for a moment. She takes it to the grocery store, to the Internet cafe, to doctor's offices. When she's asked about the violence in Iraq, she unzips the bag and opens her laptop to give an impromptu slideshow, the war made portable.

There are files and files of photos of Iraqi suffering in towns such as Fallujah, Qaim and Haditha -- all volatile areas in Iraq's western Anbar province. She has pictures of the grisly aftermath of a suicide bombing, of forcibly displaced children washing themselves in filthy water, of haggard-looking Iraqis lining up at the Syrian border. Perhaps the most chilling is a photo from her own neighborhood in Adhemiya. It shows the corpse of a man jutting out from a trash dump, his arms bound behind his back.

Utility aside, however, the backpack is one heavy burden. Rana is obsessive about its whereabouts, always terrified she'll leave it behind in a taxi. Sometimes, visiting journalists treat her to meals at fancy Damascene restaurants. Rana dresses up in a nice blouse and a skirt, then ruins her outfit by strapping on the bulky black backpack. Even at a modest restaurant yesterday, we watched her endure the humiliating stares of other diners. Rana pretends the whispers don't sting, but it's clear they do. 

The backpack bows her shoulders and gives her back pains that keep her awake at night. Her mother warns her she's ruining her posture, her friends beseech her to just hide it under her bed and enjoy one night without the baggage. Rana always refuses, saying she has no choice but to protect the last thing she can call her own.

December 01, 2007

Ticket to ride

Today marks the successful maiden voyage of my brand-new Egyptian passport, a document I never dreamed I'd need as the lucky owner of a blue U.S. passport, that all-access pass to most of the world.
Syria, however, is not like most of the world. It might be the only place on earth where it's handier to have an Egyptian passport than an American one because the Syrians don't require visas for fellow Arabs. (Hooray for the vestiges of Arab nationalism!)

Even a year ago, I could enter Syria relatively easily on a U.S. passport, plus my Egyptian ID card. The passport control guys would take a look at my name, search my face to make sure I look the part, and stamp the entry card. At most, they snickered at my childish Arabic handwriting.

However, the influx of Iraqis and the intense security threats in the region have forced the Syrians to narrow the definition of just who gets some Arab brotherly love.

Obviously, Iraqis are facing a lot of scrutiny and a much harder time getting into the country now. Some Palestinians and Lebanese also say they've been hassled at the borders recently. And then there's those pesky hyphenated Arabs -- to admit or not to admit? The Syrians have decided to admit us without visas, but only if we travel on Arab passports.

All of which leads me to how I came to possess a slim, forest-green passport issued by the Arab Republic of Egypt. The eagle of the republic is on the front and tiny lime-green Sphinx heads dot the inside, apparently to foil counterfeiters. I still felt like I was doing something illegal.

At the Cairo airport today, I approached passport control with dread. The officer looked at my ticket and my spotless passport and asked if this was the first time I had left Egypt for Syria. I told him no, that I had visited several times before.
"Ah, so you must have an American passport," he said with a laugh.
Yes, I replied.
"We've been getting a lot of people like you these days!"

On the short Cairo-Damascus flight, I felt like an impostor as I flipped through the Egyptian passport to check the number for a landing card; I know the U.S. number by heart. The passenger to my left turned out to be a Lebanese-American from Texas who is based in Cairo and travels frequently throughout the region. He was in the same boat when it came to Syria, he said, and was bailed out by his maroon Lebanese passport.

The plane touched down just after 8 p.m., and it was time for the big test.
We disembarked and suddenly I found myself in the seemingly endless line in the passport control lane marked, "Syrians and Arabs." Typically, I would be in the line marked, "Foreigners," where not a single soul waited tonight.

Finally, I got to the officer. Things were going OK until he started asking about my profession, whether I had used another passport to enter Syria before, etc. He'd seen my name in the system and the details didn't match. At one point, he asked me if I was really an Italian radio reporter.

He asked me if I had the U.S. passport with me. I said I might have it somewhere, knowing it was deep in the bottom of my carry-on bag in case of a shortage of Arab brotherly love.
"Let's see it," he said.

I fished it out and he took both my passports and turned them over to a senior officer. My Egyptian colleague Miret (who has no dual citizenship and, therefore, no problem getting into Syria) waited with me. I could hear exasperated sighs and feel the poison-dart looks from the passengers standing behind me. We stepped aside.

After a few minutes, Miret spotted a man in an olive-colored uniform who came to the passport control area holding both my travel documents. He kept looking at the photos and scanning the crowd. I tried to push my way to him, but didn't make it before he bellowed out my name in front of everyone. Great. Now we looked like drug mules caught with cocaine in front of all the nice, harmless travelers.
Despite his gruff tone, the officer had good news. He told me to go ahead and even walked with us so we could cut and not have to stand in line again.
"Just use the Egyptian one," he cautioned, motioning for me to put away the blue U.S. passport.

I handed the green passport to the same officer as before. He asked the usual questions: Where was I staying? Was I in Syria on work or tourism? And then came the info on my employer, obviously an American newspaper company.
"Your office is in Cairo, right?" he asked with an arched eyebrow.
Trying to be ethical, I mumbled something about the bureau being in Cairo, but the main office being in the United...
"But your office is in Cairo, right? I don't think we need to put 'American' on anything, do you?" the officer asked with a conspiratorial look.
"No, sir," I told him. "My office is in Cairo."
The stamp came down with a thud: "admitted."
"Welcome to Syria," the officer said. "Sorry about the delay."











ABOUT THIS BLOG

hannah

Middle East Diary is written by McClatchy Newspapers correspondent Hannah Allam. She's based in Cairo but travels widely through the region. Feel free to send a story suggestion. Read her stories at news.mcclatchy.com.

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