Getting a haircut in Beijing

I’m not particularly fussy when it comes to haircuts. Growing up, the four brothers would line up and my mom would do her magic with the electric snippers once a month.

As an adult in the United States, I’ve always been a Supercuts kind of guy. Do it quick, get it over, and pay as little as possible.

But I’ve always enjoyed the experience of getting a haircut overseas. Somehow, the barber shop or hair salon seemed like an interesting window on local culture.

I used to visit Panama regularly, and remember the barbershop near my hotel. The barber immediately would throw a Hustler magazine in my lap and hand me a cold beer. For Panamanians, that was the way to enjoy one’s tonsorial experience. You can’t fight it.

In Colombia, where I later lived, an entire family staffed the hair salon. The wife did clients’ nails while the sons and the father cut hair. There were lower middle-class but they carried themselves with distinction and elegant courtesy. In addition to cutting my hair, they insisted on taking trimmers to my eyebrows, razor to my nape and long thin scissors to my nose hairs as well.

Maybe I’ve seen Scarface too many times. I’m not that hirsute. I always cringed in that Colombian hair salon when the barber would take those long scissors toward my nose, fearing I was about to become victim of something unpleasant.

Anyway, I’ve just gotten my haircut in Beijing this afternoon, and after four years here I never cease to marvel at the experience. The hair salon is one place where service is always first rate in China. The owners are private business people striving to do well.

First off, the client is invariably served tea or coffee upon arrival. A jacket is placed in a locker, and the client handed a key. Next, one doesn’t get just a garden-variety shampoo. One gets a shampoo and a head massage involving strong and relaxing finger pressure. The one today was completely invigorating. At times, they also massage the neck and shoulders.

They don’t just take the shears to the head, either. The cutting is slow and precise, all done with scissors. At times, when I’m in a hurry, it’s been exasperatingly slow. But other times, it’s a pleasure to see them take so much care with their work.

Most Chinese can’t afford such treatment, which is probably equivalent to $7 or $8. Some even go to humble sidewalk barbers. Maybe I’ll work up my courage and go there myself. Stay posted.

Comments

[A B]

And here your readers were waiting with baited breath for your descriptions of the Asian style 'barber shops', or 'soap and towel', aka 'turkish' baths.

[Pffefer]

"Most Chinese can’t afford such treatment, which is probably equivalent to $7 or $8."

Tim, you have to be kidding. Most Chinese living in the cities who are below 60 get this kind of treatment regularly. It's called "Xi, Jian and Chui".

[nanheyangrouchuan]

Okay, something I really enjoyed in China. I used to go a salon on Wan Ping Nan Road and Ling Ling Road in Xu Jia Hui and got great haircuts, including shampoo, conditioning, forehead, neck and arm massages for about 40 RMB. After establishing myself as a regular (and being the only foreign regular) the price came down to 25 RMB and I left good tips. Those forehead massages were magic, especially on a BCD.

I'm a Great Clips person as well and I'm just happy not to get a butchering from a recovering crack addict half of the time. So there you have it, a "good memory" of China from me and a major shortcoming in the US. A haircut and massage here? $$$

[China and I]

I am always amazed by all these barbershops who are working directly on the streets and cut the hairs of migrants workers. Imagine that it costs only .50 Euros to do it.
Hope Ben Ross has had a better salary when he worked for a hairsaloon last summer.

[rev_matt_y]

When we were in China over the summer my wife had her hair done in a salon in Nanchang. She said it was easily the best haircut she'd ever had, it took two hours. And she did blog about it here: http://meiinchina.blogspot.com/2007/06/thursday-in-nanchang-chinese-haircut.html

[Dawn Marie Martin Lopez]

Tim,
As both a Panamanian and an American citizen, I can vouch for the fact that most Panamanians, even the men, in fact do NOT read Hustler nor do they chug beer, while getting their hair cut...they just dole that out for what they view as the "typical" gringo. I think I know which barbershop you stepped into, too....near Via Espana? Still and all, the services in Panama for hair ARE a lot more pampering and a load cheaper too. So far, as I am now in Hangzhou on business, they're not bad here either.

[Tim J]

Yes, Dawn Marie, it was near the Via Espana. But this wasn't any sort of tourist clip shop. I recall being the only non-Panamanian in there. And the others weren't reading Better House & Garden.

In any case, don't take this as a slight on Panama, one of the most beautiful countries on the face of the Earth. Especially the surf break about an hour's drive west of Panama City. Can't remember the name.

[Absurdfool]

nice post about life routine in bj
btw, "Xi, Jian and Chui", normally costs $1-2 for average citizen in china, Pffefer

[rio]

My barber back home was a fat Greek guy called Dmitri, who reminded me of the Godfather, especially when he asked me what number i wanted. He's bald and cuts like he's got a vendetta with the hair on everyone else's head.

In China the proper "Xi, Jian, Chui", full package usually consists of
- shampooing + head/neck massage
- shoulder, neck, arm, hands, back massage while waiting for the hairstylist ( and cotton swabs to clean your ears)
- Cutting,
- Rinsing,
- Cutting,
- Blowdry/style.
About (25-60 yuan) depending on where you're living.

[+ mOdOk +]

As I buy a "VIP" card from the local shop in my Beijing apartment complex, I get a nearly one-hour long hair wash including head, face, shoulder, neck, arms, and back massage for just over 8 rmb. This isn't an ordinary hair wash either, as they really know how to use their fingernails on your scalp to good effect. You could say I'm a regular customer, as I usually indulge a few times a week.

Alas, I pay a lot more (80 rmb) for a "fancy" haircut at a salon with Vidal Sassoon trained stylists downtown, who are, by comparison, remarkably underwhelming in the washing department, but never leave me disappointed with the cut.

[Gary Stanford]

I had my haircut in Shenyang last month and it was easily the best haircut I've ever had. I paid 58 yuan. The establishment was clean, very modern, well organized, and busy. After a very short wait, I enjoyed two head massages, neck, arms, and hands. My cutter was expert taking artistic pride in his work. My wife enjoyed her experience so much that she stayed longer while I explored Zhong Shan Square. I've never had a hair experience like the chinese one.