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The train's cars probably got Shanghaied to a more profitable route.

Traveling overnight to Beijing on the train, I discovered the bottom bunk beds were unoccupied. The train had no more scheduled stops.

Rather than sleep in the top-bunk I roped down to the vacant bottom bunk.

The roaming stewardess was distessed to see this, and pushing a blinking flashlight in my face, told me to re-ascend.

It was a nonsensical decision to make. Unfortunately she reinforced her decision by screaming into her walki-talki for the back-up brigade.

My entire cabin was woken up by the walki-talki device. This was not the worst: the walki-talki was so loud that it activated the trains optical-sound lighting mechanism: Floodlight city for all!

You could hear the groans!

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Tim

"China Rises" is written by Tim Johnson, the Beijing bureau chief for McClatchy Newspapers. He covers both China and Taiwan.

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